Wedge Loft 46/52/58/64 - anyone?

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By kevin O

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  • 16 Replies
  1. kevin O

    kevin O

    Hi,

    I am considering a 46/52/58/64 wedge combo. Anyone else thinking the same.

    I need a 64 for my local course, but can't sacrifice a long club to do it. So, instead of 52/56/60 I am thinking 52/58/64...

    Note Adam Scott does 6* increments on his wedges...must be OK, right?

     

     

    Thanks!

  2. Ryan Crysler

    Ryan Crysler
    West Palm Beach, FL

    Very nice!  I think you'll have a great setup. 

  3. Cath D.

    Cath D.
    Carlsbad, CA

    kevin O said:

    Hi,

    I am considering a 46/52/58/64 wedge combo. Anyone else thinking the same.

    I need a 64 for my local course, but can't sacrifice a long club to do it. So, instead of 52/56/60 I am thinking 52/58/64...

    Note Adam Scott does 6* increments on his wedges...must be OK, right?

      Thanks!

    Bob recommends 4-6 degrees between wedges depending on whether you are a feel player or a mechanical player.  He believes that feel players can play up to 6° and mechanical players will do better with 4°-5°.

     

  4. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    I used PW-51-58-64 for a couple years. I had a Vokey 258-12 and the main reason was to simplify. In old school golf, the PW was 50 deg and the SW was generally 57 or 58. I discovered 64 degree wedges in 2006. They are just about a necessity on the muni and executive courses since the greens are generally pretty small and hard. They come in rather handy, too. My current setup is 1-3-7 woods, 5H 6-GW DCI irons, 54-11 cc, 60-07, and 64-07 (Vokey SM). 15 yard gap between 3-7, 7-5H, 5H-6 iron. Sacrificing a long club? The other option you can do is use a 50 deg wedge in place of the 46 and 52. The 46 is pretty close to a 9 iron anyway. You can go with the standard 1-3-5 wood, 3-4H, 5-9 iron setup. You can always work the 9 iron and the wedges by choking down the handle to shave distance.
  5. Dave D

    Dave D
    Scituate, MA

    I recently replaced 47,52,56,60 with 47,54,60 + a 17° 910H. I'm not looking back. Being more of a feel player, I find the spread makes me concentrate more, and as a result my wedge shots have been much closer. I know because my number of puts is dropping. In general, I cover the gaps with not much more than chocking up a bit on the club and making the same swing every time. This also forces me to swing easier, resulting in more accuracy. When I had the four wedges, I was often taking more of a full shot, and my accuracy suffered.

    Now, I just need to convince myself to slow down with the driver...

  6. Clifford M

    Clifford M
    Lousiville, KY

    I personally think it depends.  (What an insightful answer, right?)  I base my depends (verb, not noun-or garment) on three factors.  First, on what type of course do you play?  On one with many short game shots needed (lobs, pitch and runs, closely mown chipping areas with many shot selection options, it's about what options fit your game best and what shot you play most often).  On one of R.T. Jones type of course where most greens are elevated and predominately one approach shot is called for, i.e. a high shot that sits right down (drop and stop).  My personal set up is PW, 56 degree (Vokey 56/11) and 60 (60/04).  I am good at partial shots, or shots that spin or run out, so I personally like a three wedge set up, and it was confirmed, for me personally at the TPI in Carlsbad.  Set up and gap testing are a must (IMHO), and some time on really figuring out what you're good at and what your  opportunities for improvement are.  Second, what type of length do you possess?  In other words, it is more important to have long game options or short game options.  Again, (IMHO), that depends on testing and your own personal comfort with, for example the desire or ability to take a little off a hybrid or a 60 degree wedge.  If you would rather feather a hybrid and hit a scoring club the same way all the time to get it close, then more wedges are better.  Third, I would factor in normal speed, hardness and precision required at wherever you play most of your golf.  Short game options to me come down to hitting more clubs the same way, or hitting fewer clubs in varying ways to get them close.  Hope this non answer answer helps a little.

  7. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    My wedge setup is back to what it used to be 2 years ago (loft wise). 54-11 c-c, 58-12 c-c, 60-07, 64-07. I used to be able to do a lot with a 258-12 or a DSG 58. I tried a 48-06 this past week. It is actually 1/2" longer than any of my set wedges. To get it to hit properly, I would have had to cut the shaft 1/2" and increase the lie angle 1/2 deg upright. That would have also dropped the swingweight to C9 with a standard grip (would have had to use a Winn Excel RF midsize to compensate and restore swingweight to D1). 35.75 is a bit long for a PW for me (35.25 or 35.5 with 64.5 lie angle is a pretty comfortable setup and I do well with it). I returned it and exchanged it for a 58-12 c-c and couldn't be any happier.
  8. Mike E

    Mike E
    Pickerington, OH

    Chances are your long game does not help your scoring that much.

    IMHO, you need a PW somewhere around 48 degrees of you are in trouble from 120 to 105 yards.

  9. Geoffrey B

    Geoffrey B
    Celina, OH

    sounds like a nice set of sticks sir

  10. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    What I have covers most bases. The bare essentials are the 54-11 and the 60-07. The 64-07 is good to have handy (great for short bunker shots in soft sand where there is little real estate on the green or pitching downhill to a small putting surface); almost essential at Admiral Baker or Balboa Park Exec because the greens are hard as rock.
  11. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    There was a bunker shot that was perfect for the 64-07. Small bunker with the ball on the far right. The pin was 15' in front of the left side of the bunker on the front of the green. I hit out of the bunker to the center of the green and the ball rolled sideways left and ended up a foot from the pin. To go directly to the pin would have resulted in the ball rolling off the green.
  12. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    You're probably going to see this all over the place, but the 62-07 just totally blows away both the 60-07 and 64-07.
  13. Jakes D

    Jakes D

    I agree with Mike. if you need so many wedges then your game into the green needs attention. look at the tour pro's they play small hard greens all the time and very few carry a 64 wdge. having all these wedges complicate the shortgame, it created to many options and confusion, confusion cause dought and leads to bad shots. Seve showed golfers what can be done by using a PW and SW. Golf is an art and a science. keep stats of your short game handicap. how many times do you play a great shot with each of these wedges. go and play practice round by yourself, take a few balls around the green using different clubs to play the shots and decide for yourself if you need all these wedges.
  14. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    Have to remember that a PW was 50 degrees and a SW was about 57-58 deg back in the old days of Golf. I played golf with 3-4 woods, 3-5-7-9 irons and a Haig Ultra dual wedge between 1972 to 1979. Like what will be coming up in a post waiting to be approved.... my wedges are the DCI 981 P and W, Spin Milled c-c (54-11 bent to 55-12, 58-12,62-07). The W and the 58 are "nice to have". I could actually get by with a PW, 54-11 and 62-07. You also need to remember that a lot of the people on this forum aren't golf pros that can drive a ball over 300 yards, hit a 5 wood 250 yards or a pitching wedge 150 yards and do not use X flex shafts. There are also quite a few of us that don't hit the ball quite as far as we used to 30 years ago so we have to rely on short game wizardry to score on 400+ yard par 4s. Also, golf pros don't generally play courses with sand that is hard as a rock in the bunkers nor courses with poor groundskeeping. Furthermore, you don't often see a pin placement about 5 feet from the front of the green in a lot of pro tournaments.
  15. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    Also, sand wedges were constructed differently than they are nowadays. A Ben Hogan Sure Out had a very low bounce but an extremely wide flange. My honest opinion is the 62-07 does much better than the 60-07 and 64-07 put together. It has a wider flange than the 60-07. I love it for short bunker shots (it worked well in both the clubhouse bunker with wet and hard sand and in the driving range bunker with soft sand). The 64-07 is more like a sand wedge (the leading edge has a rather high bounce) and its real purpose is dropping shots off turf or high and short bunker shots(for a tight lie, one would have to deloft it to the point that it would be better to use a 60-07). The 60-07 is kind of caca off grassy lies and opening the blade on the 54-11 often works better. I tried a grassy lie to an uphill practice green and the 62-07 dropped the ball on a dime. The 58-12 has a flat bottom so it is fab when you have to hit a digging shot (it works way better on a severe downhill lie on a mound to a green below with a hard lie. Its limitation is hard packed sand (doesn't get under the ball as easily as the 62-07 or even the 54-11). The amount of spin on this club is incredible, so it'll stop the ball pretty well. This particular wedge does quite a bit. The 54-11 is basically the wedge I use about 90 percent of the time. Works out of soft bunkers, does long bunker shots in hard or wet sand and quite a bit of my pitching duties. I could actually live without a gap wedge (hadn't used one in 4 years since my Golfsmith P2 set had a 51). When I had one, its main purpose was 80-100 yard approach shots. I can go to Riverwalk GC (which is more of an "elite" course with daytime greens fees that approach $100) and never once use a lob wedge (actually last game I played I used my 9 iron and PW around the greens because the pins were rearward). Even if they mow the fairways, the ground isn't like concrete. If you go to some of the executive courses in San Diego County, the conditions vary tremendously from well-manicured to total crap. There are one or two where the fairways are pretty narrow and about maybe 10 feet of it has an even lie (basically put a golf course in a canyon).
  16. Lou G

    Lou G
    San Diego, CA

    My minimal golf setup is driver, 7 wood, 9 wood (28 deg), DCI 981 7-PW, Vokey Spin-Milled c-c 54-11 and 62-07, putter. I'm getting a warm fuzzy with the 62 and have been practicing all sorts of shots. The only real reason to carry a 3 wood is if the par 3s are 190-200 yd. I can still reach the green with a 9 iron on a 300 yd par 4 by teeing off with the 7 wood.
  17. kevin O

    kevin O

    Hi,

    I have a few weeks with this set-up under my belt, and I must say I am very happy.

    My course has rock hard fairways and greens, so the extra loft of the 58 and 64 have come in very handy. The low bounce (58/8* and 64/7*) are great for sliding under the ball without having to open the face.

    46* from 125 yds and 52*from 110 are a perfect compliment. 

    This wider range of loft with fewer clubs has allowed me to put a 3 wood back in the bag, so my par 5 scoring has improved now, too.

    All personal preference, of course, but this is sure working for me...

     

     

    Thanks!

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